bloodshed in Nimes

Despite my better judgement, I decided to go to a bullfight.

Hemingway can glorify it all he wants but all that pomp and ceremony is nothing more than the torture and death of a noble animal.

With tears running down my face I watched the bull run to the edge of exhaustion before being tormented and stabbed until it collapsed and died, then ignominiously dragged out of the stadium to the waiting butchers van.

Amsterdam to Provence

After Francesco left, I headed south to Provence, which unfortunately meant I had to cross the Massif Central again. Headed a bit further west and paralleled my route from last year.

After Norway the hills didn't seem so bad but I did make the mistake of climbing Super Besse. After seeing it on the Tour de France I thought....how bad can it be! One of my more stupid decisions.....

A friend in the flat land

I forgot the tales of how flat the Netherlands really are, nor how windy. The national symbol of a windmill should have given me some clue. But at least I wasn't going to be alone!

This was to be my friend Francesco's introduction to cycle touring....with a compromise of B&B's.

Starting in Amsterdam we headed NE, which unfortunately is not the direction of the prevailing winds! With flat, open land the wind comes bowling in, often accompanied by the smell of the dairies.

I found the long, continuous grind to keep moving forwards tiring and mind numbing.

Not my ideal type of touring but we explored around some interesting cities.

A field guide to bikes of the Netherlands

Just a sampler

Why the Vikings chose boats

Too Many Hills!
Aaaahh.....Norway. A truly amazing country.


It was love at first sight.

From Kristiansand north to Lom, with a few zig-zags.

Stunning cycling, friendly people....and lots of hills.

A tough country to cycle in but more than worth the effort

Route 55

From Skjolden to Lom, Route 55 is the highest mountain road in Northern Europe, though at at 1443m the risk of altitude sickness is rather minimal. If you are going to cycle it...I recommend coming from the Lom side!

From the fjord at Skjolden the road climbs for 25 unending kilometers. Even in the lowest gear the leg muscles scream for something flat that never comes.

Passing through the alpine area of the Jotunheimen National Park you get it all; wild mountain views, raging rivers, clear mountain lakes, freezing cold rain and strong headwinds.

If you like pain....do this road!

Rallarvagen

Following the old construction road for the Oslo-Bergen railway, built over 100 years ago, the Rallarvagen track between Haustagol and Voss/Flam has to be one of the best cycle routes in the country.
Passing the Hardanger glacier, it is part of the largest alpine plateau in Europe. A wild, windswept landscape of snow and rivers and not much else. Must have been a fun place to work!

Unfortunately there was still a lot of snow in the higher parts which meant a lot of pushing and cold wet feet.

Danish rolls

A seemingly endless series of flat roads, farms and forest...not the most exciting of cycling destinations.

Though wherever you wanted to go you were almost always guaranteed of a bike path


and an interesting welcome.

Eating the kilometers

After being thrown off the plane to Iceland I decided on a a rather ambitious project to make it from Dusseldorf to Norway. Unfortunately, this means days of 100km minimums and lots of aches and pains.

I have blisters on my hands, sore legs and ....not even going to mention the ass and shoulders!

After 6 days....I reached Denmark.

My thanks to Hadrian for his hospitality and help in Dusseldorf

and to the ex-mayor of Wilster, Wolfang and his wife Hilke for a hot shower and soft bed