Thursday, May 6, 2010

The Arctic Circle


Ever since I was a wee cyclist with training wheels I have wanted to cross the Arctic Circle. None of my daydreams included doing it in a snowstorm!

After a long slow rollercoaster of a climb, I emerged on the open, snow-covered and windswept pass, through the middle of which runs the infamous line.
Once I hit this open plain...the snow came in. Covered in snow and slush, the road was treacherously slippery and the water thrown up was freezing up everything. Icicles were forming on anything that wasn't moving. My gears froze into positions, my brake cables iced up so they no longer worked and ice kept building up onto the big ring. I had to keep stopping to chip it away to stop it jamming into the derailleur.




Stopped at the visitor's centre (which wasn't officially open) and was surprised (!) to learn I was the first cyclist through for the summer. This of course was after they told me I was mad!!

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The road to Hell





Forget good intentions...this road was paved with
snow.!
I have made some intelligent decisions in my life but cycling north in Norway in April isn't one of them!
It has been bitterly cold and I have rarely felt my extremities...I have tried every possible way to try and keep my hands warm and for the past week haven't felt my toes except for a few hours in the sleeping bag.
On the up-side...my tent went through its first snow storm and performed admirably. Once the snow piled up around the base and sealed it...it was snug and moderately warm. Not bad for a 3-season tent!
It is strange though...I haven't seen any other cycle tourers on the road. Perhaps there is a reason for this!

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

bloodshed in Nimes





Despite my better judgement, I decided to go to a bullfight.

Hemingway can glorify it all he wants but all that pomp and ceremony is nothing more than the torture and death of a noble animal.

With tears running down my face I watched the bull run to the edge of exhaustion before being tormented and stabbed until it collapsed and died, then ignominiously dragged out of the stadium to the waiting butchers van.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Amsterdam to Provence




After Francesco left, I headed south to Provence, which unfortunately meant I had to cross the Massif Central again. Headed a bit further west and paralleled my route from last year.
After Norway the hills didn't seem so bad but I did make the mistake of climbing Super Besse. After seeing it on the Tour de France I thought....how bad can it be! One of my more stupid decisions.....

A friend in the flat land

I forgot the tales of how flat the Netherlands really are, nor how windy. The national symbol of a windmill should have given me some clue. But at least I wasn't going to be alone!







This was to be my friend Francesco's introduction to cycle touring....with a compromise of B&B's.


Starting in Amsterdam we headed NE, which unfortunately is not the direction of the prevailing winds! With flat, open land the wind comes bowling in, often accompanied by the smell of the dairies.
I found the long, continuous grind to keep moving forwards tiring and mind numbing.

Not my ideal type of touring but we explored around some interesting cities.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

A field guide to bikes of the Netherlands

Just a sampler












Why the Vikings chose boats

Too Many Hills!
Aaaahh.....Norway. A truly amazing country.


It was love at first sight.

From Kristiansand north to Lom, with a few zig-zags.

Stunning cycling, friendly people....and lots of hills.

A tough country to cycle in but more than worth the effort